Finding Fresh Views in Door County

Moon over water imagery always makes me think of horrible paintings on black velvet at gas stations along the Pacific Coast Highway in Laguna Beach. Not quite sure why. So if you had told me about Bonnie Paruch’s painting of “Moonlight on Rowley’s Bay” you would have aroused by skepticism. The work is stunning, as you can see from her Web site on P. 2. (Funny, if you click on the image it comes up with the caption "Rowley’s Bat Moon") 

It’s pretty easy to see why this is so good. She cheats. At least from a photographer’s viewpoint. She builds up the paint and turns the moon’s reflection into edgy pools of bright color on the canvas. It’s a very tough act for mere photography to follow.

It’s also not something that can be done in watercolor. The oil-paint-wielding landscape painters have dominated the Plein Air festival that the Peninsula School of Art has sponsored for 6 years; only two participants this year were doing watercolor. 

Painting has also become much looser, much bolder, around the county, I think. (See Nancy Keyser’s description of her work, in watercolor, below.)  Both Paruch, who has just opened her own gallery in Ellison Bay, and Tom Nachreiner, a Plein Art mainstay from Delafield, paint with power. Tom had a painting of a seagull on the beach at Edgewood Orchard over the summer.  As a cliche of Sunday painters, a seagull painting might fall just a notch or two below a sailboat passing a lighthouse in a ranking of Door County cliches, but Nachreiner’s is a strong painting that had me debating with someone in gallery over which one of us should be able to take it home. Unfortunately, neither of us had our checkbooks. 

The painting looks like late afternoon sun on Lake Michigan, with waves piling up in warm whites and yellows  as they prepare to assault the beach. The bright color in the foreground is backed by surly dark water stretching to the horizon. The gull, alone on the beach, struts in front of the wave as if he owns the place. Indeed, the water appears to parted just before him to make his stroll an easy one.

The handling of the paint makes it work. (Also see his ducks in images 13-18 on the Edgewood Orchard site which I think are far more interesting as paintings than the images of ducks he displays under Wildlife on his own site. 


Rolf Olson, whose Shades of Gray photographs have been appearing on Facebook, takes a  decidedly different approach -- he reduced his images, which are of simple and well defined subjects like a tree trunk, to just shades of gray. 

The idea doesn’t sound very interesting, but I like the images a lot. My thinking here  reminds me of the French saying, “Yes, I know it works in practice, but does it work in theory?”  You can see his images on Facebook and he hopes to find a wall somewhere in the county to hang some prints this winter. I look forward to seeing the prints.

Door County is a gorgeous place. For an artist, that can be a source of frustration -- where do you turn for a fresh picture? Cave Point is rarely the answer.

A Personal Guide to Door County Restaurants

This starts with Sturgeon Bay and covers restaurants north that we have been to.

Door County has some great attractions in food, fun and art. We have been surprised that even people who have been coming to Door County for years don’t know some of the great attractions. So we have put together a list of some of our favorites, just in case you every decided to get away from the cottage and do something.

The county abounds in places that do a wonderful and consistent job of serving the basics -- burgers, steaks, prime rib, fried fish and chicken. Portions are almost uniformly big to huge and if you have any interest in dessert, consider splitting an entree.

Many of these places look pretty unpromising from the outside, and several look much the same inside. Don’t be put off -- the food is great and if they haven’t wasted money on decor, perhaps that has helped hold down the menu prices. Casual to sloppy attire is acceptable everywhere in Door County, although at a few places up north like Mission Grille, the Waterfront, or the Inn at Kristophers, you might feel better in something like khakis rather than ripped painters’ jeans.

The Nightingale Supper Club

The bar opens at 4 and food starts at 5.

The big bar is probably out of the seventies and run by owner Dave and our favorite bartender, Julie, who has been helping to upgrade the wine list. If your idea of a proper drink is half a pint of ice cream and some liquor, this is the place. We don’t know what they are called and hesitate to guess the calories, but they are popular.

Specials each night -- the crowded parking lot on Thursday is because it is prime rib night, but that means just a dollar off, so don’t hesitate to order it other nights, because the place is known for it. Other great items are fish fry on Fridays (pan fried perch is excellent and available other nights as well) and tenderloin with asparagus. Entrees come with big salads and warm bread.

The wine list is good and getting better, and I will take some credit -- I helped connect the sales rep from Left Bank, out of Madison, with the supper club and they have picked up some great new wines at moderate prices -- ask Julie for more information.

Papa Murphy's

Up the hill a ways at the Mobil station is Papa Murphy's Pizza. What a great idea -- freshly prepared pizzas you take home and bake for 15 minutes or so. We like the everything from the veggie gourmet to the cowboy with lots of meat. You can call ahead, or just show up. Yeah, we do cook but we love this for busy nights when we need a great dinner without fuss. Diane’s vegetable and fruit stand in the parking lot is a great place to pick up fresh corn, strawberries and anything else in season -- no need to wait for a farmer’s market.  

Brick Lane

Nest door to the Third Avenue Playhouse, it is under new ownership. Stick to the basics and don't bother with a Bloody Mary --- theirs are awful. 

Crate

Formerly 136 on Third Avenue the interior has been redone and the food is superb, especially raw oysters and sushi. Good wine and beer list. Have been there only once, opening night, so the review is skimpy on detail, but we will be back. 

Del Santos

A lovely Italian place on Third. We enjoyed every time we ate there.  They have added a wine bar, so you can have a glass before dinner if you are waiting for friends to join you.

Corner Cafe has replaced Pudgy Seagull, and if the name is a little less enticing, the food is still good. Great for breakfast, quick service and reasonable prices.

Inn at Cedar Crossing

We used to love it for breakfast - great hash, eggs, and excellent baked goods along with home-made jam, but our latest visits were misses -- yes, you can screw up eggs and toast. They have a pretty varied menu with prices meant to keep the locals coming all year long with sandwiches and inexpensive pasta choices at dinner, along with more sophisticated offerings. it is also relatively quiet so anyone with hearing aids will enjoy being able to hear and converse.

Red Room

On Third, just down from the library. This is one of those places that hasn’t changed much since, well probably since it was built. But the burgers are great and under $5 with a beer. Attracts locals including retirees who sit around chatting at length and young women meeting up for a break from the working day. 

West Side

Greystone Inn

Another one of those places that looks a bit forbidding on the outside, has been around forever and features great burgers and steak sandwiches at lunch along with a good beer selection. Supposed to have a wonderful prime rib too, but we haven’t made it for dinner. 

Blue Front Cafe

The Blue Front Cafe, in a former shoe store, has an imaginative menu with some Asian-themed dishes and a great selection of moderately priced wines, courtesy of Left Bank. if you are tired of steaks and burgers, or have a vegan in the family, this is the place to go.

Kitty O’Reilly’s

Irish bar with an excellent Left Bank wine list, a big outdoor terrace where you can bring your dog, smoke, and enjoy music on summer nights. The food is excellent. Try the pulled pork if they have it on the menu; the chef is great and the specials are worth trying.  The fish and chips is done right there with a great home-made batter and is easily enough for two, and a cod wrap recently was great. They make a wicked Bloody Mary. It has become our favorite place.

heading up the hill and out of town

Scaturo's Baking and Cafe Company

Bakery and restaurant. They have a fine breakfast, excellent coffee cakes (the apple and cherry turnovers seem to have a lot of air) and daily specials. Wednesday is 2 for 1 bread day, but with loaves selling for $7 or so I am not convinced it is a great deal. Still, check it out -- neat combinations of ingredients in their breads. Two doors up is

Marchants

 A local version of the meat specialist/grocery store in Brussels, it has home-made brats,   steaks, and a few Belgian specialties along with a growing list of prepared items like potato salads and pizzas. Hard to walk out without at least a pound of brats and a steak or two. 

Woldt’s Corner

Across the street from Walgreens on the highway, it has excellent steaks, excellent pan-fried perch, and the best Bloody Marys ever, says my wife. Well, maybe matched by Kitty's.

Richard’s 

Maplewood on Rt 42 and H. This is a bit of a drive, but if you are hungry coming back from Green Bay, or the next time you drive up to Door County, consider stopping. The pizza is neck and neck with Neighborhood Pub and the old-fashioned bar is a treat. Wonderful specials, mediocre wine selection. When Keli lived in the neighborhood, we were regulars -- not so much now that it is 12 miles away.

North of Sturgeon Bay

The Mill

At the intersection of Highways 42 and 57. If the Nightingale is a throwback to the 70s, this goes back to the 50s. The bar is okay, the food is wonderful. The family style chicken -- all you can eat for two or more people -- is what your imaginary grandmother would have made for you if she really knew how to cook. Tender chicken, excellent gravy, mashed potatoes...Only trouble is, once or twice a week it competes with all you can eat prime rib. What? All you can eat prime rib?

Sounds like a sure money loser and we went to do our best. We didn’t get through one each. But, they said, one customer has eaten eight. Good thing for the Mill that almost no one else can get close to that record. The prime rib is as good as any we have eaten.

Glidden Lodge

Enjoy a view of Lake Michigan and to the north, the dunes of Whitefish Bay State Park are visible. The Lodge has a nice bar, excellent food salad bar and German specialties on Wednesday. It has an wonderful escargot dish. Excellent lobster tails, and lamb.

Fish Creek
 Bayside Tavern has great pizza among its entrees, comfy local pub place open year round.

The Cookery

Wine bar, restaurant, an outdoor balcony with a view of the main drag. Open for breakfast once again, I think. Emphasis on local food.

Coopers Corner

I don’t think we have eaten anything other than appetizers at the terrace bar which is a lot of fun.

Wild Tomato

Great pizzas and also salmon sandwiches. Dog friendly, outdoor seating, very popular so they opened a second facility in a building around back for takeout.

White Gull Inn

Voted best breakfast in the country for their stuffed cherry French toast on one of the morning news shows, a justified honor.  Also does fish boils. Expect a wait during the busy season for breakfast especially. 


Gibralter Grill

Deservedly popular with excellent sandwiches at lunch and an extensive list of beers and wines. Try the appetizer sampler -- almost enough for lunch with bruschetta, artichoke dip and spicy guacamole -- half price during Monday Happy Hour, we were told. Out door seating and a bar area that is under cover and open in good weather but with roll down clear plastic and space heaters. Also permits dogs in the outdoor area.

Heading north toward Ephraim.

English Inn

Good food, excellent service, pricey.

Alexander’s
One of the more imaginative menus in the county.


SIster Bay

Bier

From the Wild Tomato folks who plan to attach a second restaurant next year, this is a great addition -- a small place with a great list of Belgian and other beers in front, tacos in back. Try the mussels and fries -- moules frites -- which are excellent, and they have Orval and some Belgian monastary beers and a good wine list.
 

Baileys Harbor

Fish Market Grille

On the lake with outdoor dining. Step up from a fish boil to a lobster boil, but it will cost you at least $100 for two. My brother ate there this summer and said the bread rolls were stale and the wait staff a bit indifferent. We like lunch — great lobster roll sandwiches.

Chives

New to Door County in 2014, this is a branch of a well regarded restaurant located a few miles west of Green Bay. Best dinner she’s ever had in Door County, said Keli of her chick marsala. Steak Frites was a huge well-marbled steak with thin perfectly cooked frites the first time we went, second time not so great, perhaps it had been thawed in a microwave, Definitely disappointing. They are known for a great wine list, although the Door County has a ways to go in catching up to the mother ship. It’s in the heart of Baileys Harbor on the inland side of Hwy. 57

Pasta Vino

We are delighted that this has moved down from Ellison Bay to the Maxwelton Braes golf course and resort on Hwy. 57 south of Baileys Harbor. Excellent food including, to our surprise, perfectly done mussels.

Coyote Roadhouse

On Kangaroo Lake off Hwy. 57. Popular with locals and visitors, great prime rib, very casual, some outdoor tables.

Nancy Keyser Paints Rural Wisconsin -- No Lighthouses Please

Nancy Keyser was on a roll this summer, painting every day at her summer home on Green Bay in Southern Door County.

“When I get back to my home in Virginia, my other life often interferes with my painting, but here I am getting to work every morning and the work is flowing for me this summer.”

She describes her work as representational, but loose representation. She likes barns and shapes, architectural things, she explains, launching into descriptions of barns and outhouses on farms around the area, barns that have too often fallen apart, were torn down and replaced by charmless metal structures. 

Bales of hay are added to a foreground sketch of a barn where none appeared in the photograph -- that’s just a part of the advantage of painting over photography.

“My students often start with very tight images ob they think it has to be exactly like the photo, I try to get them to change the photo to get a better composition, why paint the photo? If you have a photo, use it as a reference but not something you want to copy. It’s the hardest thing to get them away from that.

“I tell them what someone told me, that Mother Nature didn’t go to art school, so you really have to make it a better composition even if it wasn’t like that in the field. Sometimes you exaggerate things in a painting, like the shadows, to get a better design. There comes a point in a painting where you do what is best for the painting and don’t worry about making it look like a photo.”

This summer she has found the more painting she does, the easier it gets.

She points to a painting of a farmer on a horse-drawn tiller with four-foot high steel-rimmed wheels, whose roundness is echoed in the round rumps of the horses and providing a bit of inspiration to Keyser, who is tempted to create an image of rumps on barstools at the Red Room in Sturgeon Bay, one of her family’s favorite lunch spots. 

Not to worry, patrons -- she takes sufficient liberty with her subjects that few behinds would be recognizable in a finished painting.

“I try to get looser and looser, in my painting,” she added. 

She points to a painting of a farmer on a horse-drawn tiller, the roundness of the wheels echoed in the round rumps of the horses and providing a bit of inspiration to Keyser, who is tempted to create a version, in photography or watercolor, of rumps on barstools at the Red Room in Sturgeon Bay, one of her family’s favorite haunts. 

Not to worry, patrons -- she takes sufficient liberty with her subjects that few behinds would be recognizable in a finished painting.

In 25 years of watercolor painting, she has continued to pursue learning, taking classes from painters she admires -- Gerhard Miller, Phil Austen, Jack Anderson, Nancy Crosby, Bridget Austin and Emmett Johns, among others, even while students in Virginia eagerly sign up to learn from her.

She showed her work this summer at the Martinez Studio, focused on rural Wisconsin, not necessarily Door County. And no lighthouses. 

“I used to paint lighthouses and landmarks, but I think that has been pretty well taken care of in the art world up here, and it doesn’t fascinate me any more.”

She points to a picture of a chicken with a spotted breast and sides against a fluid background of blue and rust. She used the method she learned from Sharon Crosbie, who starts with a light wash, then added the chicken, and then darkened the background to make the chicken pop out. Working with wet, or partly wet paint, some of the watercolors will blend into each other.

The painting took about two weeks, starting with the light and then adding dark areas as she went along..

“You look at it and see what it needs.”

Watercolor requires some careful planning, especially when it comes to choosing the areas that will be white -- you can’t go back and paint white over dark the way an oil painter can.

Keyser, however, said she doesn’t find it harder.

“Not for me because I don’t know how to do oil or acrylic. I am going to take some classes in oil, but your brain has to reverse itself. Emmett (Johns) does everything, but most people find a niche they are comfortable in.” She has taken several courses with him including figure drawing and pastel classes.

“Emmett is a fantastic teacher. He is is the most multi-talented artist up here, I think. Portraits, abstractions and landscapes -- he does them all well.

“Usually I study with is someone because I really like their work and want to see their process. By watching their process you can learn a lot. This spring I studied with Tom Francesconi in Ellison Bay. I t was wonderful just observing how he uses the brushes and learning what goes on in his mind before he starts to paint, which he is very good at explaining. I don't expect to come out with a painting from a class, I just come out with ideas.”